Chinese Tea 中国茶道

from: How Chinese Think; and How To Deal With China
by Kevin Fountain, Ph. D. - © Kevin Frederick Fountain

Tea comes from China, and the Chinese word for tea is cha 茶. Why? Why is the English word so different from the Chinese? Perhaps foreigners first truly appreciated tea in the region of coastal southern Fujian and coastal northern Guangdong provinces. In southern Fujian, people spoke a dialect which uses the sound "dteh" for tea instead of "cha." Neighboring people in Shantou and Chaozhou also said "te" for tea. It is no accident that the French for tea, is thé.

Chinese tea can be basically divided into five categories: black tea, oolong tea, green tea, white tea and flower/herbal tea. Herbal tea refers to hot beverages made from boiling or steaming herbs or dried fruit. Flower tea features flower petals as an additive to black or green tea base to create a fusion flavor.

White tea is the new growth leaves or buds that have not been oxidized. Because the buds have been shielded from sunlight, they have not formed chlorophyll, and remain whitish.  White teas are the least processed of any tea. Very young leaves are dried to remove all moisture. Lighter in body than greens, white tea yields a naturally sweet "infusion."

Green tea is produced by stopping the oxidation process through dry cooking in large hot pans. The resulting leaves create a light and refreshing drink never to be diluted with milk or sweetened with sugar. Prized for centuries for supposed health benefits, green teas are now confirmed as excellent sources of anti-oxidants.

Oolong or wulong teas are partially oxidized. Partial fermentation leaves a flavor lighter than black teas, stronger than green teas. Wulong tea is brewed from large leaves, suitable for multiple infusions, and ideal for the so-called "gongfu" method of steeping tea. Wulong teas have a stout flavor, and a strong, lingering aftertaste.

Black tea carries the oxidation process to conclusion. Fully oxidized, black teas are the most popular types of tea on the American market and are available in a wide variety of flavors which vary depending on soil quality, elevation above sea level and time of harvest. It is the leaves that are black, the brewed liquid tea is reddish, and therefore in China is called "red tea."

As wine is made from varieties of the species vitis vinifera, tea is made from the leaves, buds and twigs of the camellia sinensis tea bush. And as wine from different processes, different grape varieties, different terroir yields widely different tastes, so tea presents Chinese with a broad spectrum of choice. Some notes on a few teas popular in China follow.

Puer 普洱 is a black tea named after the town of Puer, Yunnan province. The production of Puer involves a double fermentation during which the leaves actually begin to decompose, as compost. The result is a tea with a stout, earthy flavor. Some Puer is aged even fifty years!

Tieguanyin 铁观音 is a variety of wulong tea from Fujian province. Guanyin is a Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. Tieguanyin means "Iron Goddess of Mercy." Tieguanyin, especially the 'autumn harvest,' is highly prized in China.

Wulong dongding 乌龙冻顶 or "Black Dragon Frozen Summit" tea is a top grade, ultra expensive tea produced in Taiwan. The story says that on the mountain tops, after the first frost, virgins are dispatched to pluck the best leaves with gentle tugs of their gloved hands. Another story points to the serpentine appearance of the dried leaves. Wulong dongding of the "frozen summit" is very rare. Ordinary Wulong is common to Chinese restaurants of nearly all types.

Juhua 菊花 or "chrysanthemum tea" is a sweet tea made from boiling chrysanthemum petals. It is a popular summer tea, has medicinal uses, and is said to be effective against the flu.

Xiangpian 香片 or "jasmine tea" is made by adding jasminium sambac flower petals to a green tea base, or more often to a black tea base. Perhaps the most popular tea in Beijing.

Longjing 龙井 or "Dragon Well" is a green tea from Hangzhou, Zhejiang province. An immensely popular tea, Dragon Well is featured at tea houses throughout China, including the famous Running Tiger Temple near Hangzhou.

"Gunpowder tea" is green tea that has been rolled into pellets or balls which unfurl in hot water as they brew. "Silver Ball Tea" is normally steeped in transparent glasses, so that customers can watch the tea balls expand.

"Gong fu tea" refers to tea steeped with ceremony and special care and attention to water temperature and steeping times. Gongfu tea is brewed by repeated short infusions in a small pot. The first "infusion" is discarded, and succeeding infusions are transferred into another pot with elevated temperature. The third through fifth infusions are considered the best, although different teas brew at varying rates and may require more infusions of boiling water to bring out their best. It is said that the optimal temperature for brewing tea is a function of its type. Teas that have little or no oxidation period, such as a green or white tea, are best brewed at lower temperatures around 80 °C, while teas with longer oxidation periods or fermentation should be brewed at temperatures around 100 °C.

"Anshun tea leaves" 安顺茶叶 is a term used in southwest China to describe bogus goods. If you are told that someone advertises point of sale (POS) retail systems, or that some guy flogs Rolex watches, but sells Anshun tea leaves, be forewarned.

Many Chinese are connoisseurs of tea, and have their own favorites. Ask and remember which tea your key counterpart prefers, and have it ready when it is your turn to host him. He will notice.

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